While there is no shortage of incredible fairytale castles in and around France, if you have found a vacation rental in Aquitaine then there is one particular example that is well worth seeking out; a magical gem that is so pretty it made the famous Josephine Baker fall in love with it...
Looking like a dollhouse or a drawing from a storybook, the Château des Milandes was built in 1489 and is a masterpiece of domestic Renaissance architecture in France with exquisite Gothic features, plush interiors, picture-perfect gardens to be explored, and a range of activities to enjoy from bird shows to simulated archaeological digs for kids to sipping a coffee or enjoying lunch on the sunny patio behind the castle. For those who want to soak up the atmosphere and beauty of pre-Revolutionary French life for the impossibly wealthy and titled folk of the land, to temporarily be transported back in time, then this is a definite must-see while on vacation in Aquitaine!
As romantic as the appearance of the castle are its origins. Home to the ancient Caumont family until the French Revolution, it was built for Lord François de Caumont as a gift to his wife, Claude de Cardaillac. This was in order to replace the rather austere fortress that predated the castle and was previously the home of the Caumonts with something lighter, brighter, more romantic, and prettier for his new bride. Medieval details calling back to this period, such as the gorgeous stained-glass in mullioned windows, turrets, winding staircases, and gargoyles have been restored to the castle in the past century.
From the middle of the 17th century, the Caumonts spent less time at the castle and it was left to the local peasants who worked the land surrounding the estate to care for it. Then, of course, the French Revolution occurred and the Château was truly abandoned. The castle was sold to new owners in the 19th century but these occupants did not maintain the building and decided to also abandon it. In 1850, two more families took up residence at Milandes and changed the distribution of the rooms in order to house both family units.
Then, thankfully, the castle finally had some luck. In 1900, the French industrialist Charles Augustus Claverie bought Milandes and undertook an enormous restoration scheme from 1900 to 1914 with the help of architect Henri Laffillée. This work saved the castle from complete ruin and saw the addition of an entire east wing that was built onto a tower constructed over the ruins of an old watchtower. The romantic and enchanting medieval details that are on show throughout the property were added at this time: including an astounding collection of sculptures (with the gargoyles being the most fantastical stars of the show among them) that were dotted around the property and the restoration of all of the windows with stained glass dating back to the 17th century.
A farm and very modern winery were constructed by Claverie to make Milandes a viable business and the grounds were also completely redesigned to create a beautiful park befitting such an estate. Landscape architect Jules Vacherot, the chief gardener for Paris, was brought in in 1908 to make a French-style garden just around the castle and an English-style park surrounding this. Lovely balustrades were added facing west and north, lawns were created with patios interspersed among them, and magnolias of the grandiflora variety that produce large and fragrant white blooms each June were added to frame the entrance. In recent years, Vacherot’s design has been altered slightly to improve it and restoration works to maintain it have been undertaken.
In 1937, a new resident came to the castle, the most famous resident of all, Josephine Baker. She rented the property from 1937 and then bought it ten years later with her new husband, Jo Bouillon. During her time, running water, electricity and a central heating system were all installed and Baker embellished the residence with luxurious touches such as mosaic floors. She filled the park with exotic animals and developed an avant-garde tourist complex called the Village du Monde, with a hotel, bar-restaurant-theatre, wax museum, bowling alley, mini-golf, tennis courts, swimming pool, and more, in which she and her 12 adopted children (all of varying nationalities, ethnicities, and religious backgrounds) lived together and to which people could pay entrance. The estate also provided sanctuary during WWII to those fleeing Paris.
In 1964, due to financial problems, the castle was put up for auction and eventually sold in 1968. French courts granted Baker a reprieve and she was able to stay at the estate until the 15th of March in 1969. While she was away on tour, however, she learned that the new owner had taken over and she returned to barricade herself in the kitchen. Baker was then eventually tricked into leaving and, ultimately, had to give up on the castle. She and her children then moved to Paris and then Monaco. An exhibition of her and her family’s lives, photos, and some personal items and furniture, as well as some of Baker’s stage outfits are on display inside the castle today. Since her departure, four more families have lived in the castle.
Now open to the public for visits, the castle season runs from February to December each year, with the Brasserie on the grounds open from March and bird shows taking place in the aviary on the grounds from June to early November each year.
Lovely and with a fascinating history that is well-worth diving into, this is one of the most intriguing castles to visit if you have found a vacation rental in Aquitaine and are planning on spending some time in this magical part of France.
