When you are on holidays in Spain one can expect that good food and incredible architectural gems often come hand-in-hand. If you are a foodie interested in setting a great atmosphere for your meals and you gave decided to find a vacation rental in Valencia, for example, you should definitely set aside some time to pay a visit to the Mercado de Colón, or Mercat de Colom (Columbus Market). This stunning and key example of the Valencian Art Nouveau style is a gorgeous historic gem that houses a vibrant and brilliant market within and is, therefore, a must for the most discerning of food lovers who have found a villa in Valencia and are exploring the culinary heritage of the region.
Located right in the historic core of the city of Valencia, between Colón street and Gran Vía Marqués de Turia, the Colón market has been declared an official national monument and was designed by Valencian architect Francisco Mora Berenguer between 1914 and 1916. Since 1890, residents and business owners in the neighbourhood had been petitioning for a more permanent market structure but work did not begin until Mora was commissioned despite earlier proposals for the building by other architects. Ultimately, the project was awarded to Mora in 1913 and he finally satisfied the board with his various alterations to the plans according to their needs and preferences.
Despite all of the edits that had to be made in order to satisfy others, the architect’s taste and interests are visible all throughout the market: in the design of the cast iron columns, in the brick and polychromatic ceramics, in the mosaics and façade cladding, and in the glass and masonry and carpentry. All of these richly detailed and intricate elements show Mora’s taste for all of the minute elements and his great esteem for the artisans and artists with whom he collaborated. The overall building, though rich in its details, is impressive on a grand scale and is airy and lovely. Spread over 3,500sqm, it is built on a basilica floor plan divided into three naves arranged into nine bays 7m apart from each other. This church-inspired plan and large scale makes the whole building rather breathtaking and imbues the space with a sense of splendour and dignity. The famously beautiful façade – with its soaring arches, incredible mosaics, polychromatic accents, and sculptural details – only further heightens this feeling and gives one the impression that they have come to a place to worship good food.
To much fanfare on Christmas Eve of 1916, the Colón market was inaugurated with a cavalcade formed by the Mounted Municipal Guard, a parade of vendors and a market queen on floats, performances by The Municipal Band, and an appearance of a section of the Civil Guard. Despite the grand nature of the building and its beginnings, the market was already falling into decline by the end of the 20th century, with vendors retiring or closing up shop due to the lack of maintenance and worsening conditions of the property. Thankfully, restoration was undertaken in the early 2000s by the architect Enrique Martínez-Díaz, however, and the market became a hub of new and thriving businesses alongside three surviving original establishments (a delicatessen, fish shop, and greengrocer). The businesses working out of the market space today include a Japanese restaurant, a Burmese restaurant, a tapas bar, a horchata stand, Habitual (a modern Mediterranean cuisine restaurant run by Ricard Camarena, a Valencian chef of great national and international fame and acclaim), a florist, a burger place, outdoor cafés, a fruit and veg store, a seafood restaurant, and more.
When visiting the market, it is not uncommon to find various cultural events such as art exhibitions, performances, and live music taking place on the scene, further enhancing the experience and enjoyment of your visit to this foodie hotspot. There is also parking offered underneath the building itself but this can often fill up and it can be difficult to find parking nearby so be prepared that you may or may not have to spend some time finding a place if you are driving. Do also keep in mind that the prices of these wonderful establishments, in this beautiful architectural gem, right in the middle of the city, can be quite high and you will not always be informed ahead of time by waiters as to the cost of some items. Be sure to double-check with menus or the waiters if you are on a bit more of a budget so as not to get caught out! Those who have found a villa in Valencia and who are splashing out or enjoying the high life while on their vacation in Spain, however, should not need to worry about this at all.
The Mercat de Colom is, therefore, a really wonderful place to enjoy the café culture of the city, to eat at some amazing restaurants and try the food of some world-renowned chefs, to get your hands on some delicious produce and locally-sourced specialities, to enjoy beautiful surroundings, and to enjoy a serious architectural gem in Spain all in one spot while on vacation in Valencia. If you are interested in food and food cultures, it is certainly one of the city’s must-see attractions but anyone spending time on holiday in Valencia can surely enjoy dining or simply having coffee and watching the world go by in this remarkably lovely space.
Mercat de Colom
Carrer de Jorge Juan, 19, 46004 València, Spain
+34 963 37 11 01
Entrance is free of charge.
Opening Hours:
(For the general premises, each business will have varying business hours of their own)
Monday to Thursday from 7.30 am to 2.00 am
Friday and Saturday from 7.30 am to 3.00 am
Picture 1 Rafa Esteve / CC BY-SA 4.0
