Moreška: The Traditional Sword Dance Of Korčula

Moreška dancers
The Moreška is a traditional sword dance that is hundreds of years old and was once performed all over the Mediterranean but is now only demonstrated in the town of Korčula, on the Croatian island of the same name in the Adriatic. Common throughout the Mediterranean in 12th and 13th centuries, the dance is thought to have been imported to this charming island in 16th century from Italy and Dubrovnik. After the 19th century, Korčula was the only place where it remained. Said to have originated in Spain where the dance was linked with the conflict between the Moors and Christians, in Dalmatia, this was applied to their struggles against the Ottoman Empire.
Today, the dance and the performances put on throughout the year have become an integral part of the tourism industry of the island and it is frequently promoted by the tourism board of Croatia. It is one of many, many reasons to book a vacation rental in Korčula and come discover its beauty and historic and cultural gems.

The Moreška is performed over 25-30 minutes in traditional costume and groups of red and black-clothed figures who are part of the Red King and Black King's teams. The basis for the whole dance is a plot of a conflict between the Red King and Black King over a veiled princess. The princess opens the show with a speech, declaring her love for the Red King. Sadly, the Black King steals her away and a fight to return her to her beloved begins. Moving in circles, holding a 1kg iron short sword in each hand, the dancers clash weapons rhythmically until the Red King wins and the lovers are reunited. Performers are locals who have had the roles handed down through their families and it is considered a great honour to be a part of the dance.

Originally performed only on special occasions, perhaps once every few years, and usually on the Feast Day of Sveti Todor (St Theodore, Korčula's patron saint), modern performances occur twice weekly in the summer (July-August), every Monday and Thursday, and once a week, on Thursdays, from May to June and September until mid-October. Tickets should be purchased in advance at the Korcula Island tourist office in person, or over the phone (020-715 701).

Around the island there are other, similar, performances and traditions including the sword dance from Žrnovo-Postrana that is performed on t Roch's Day on August 16th; Kumpanija performed in Pupnat, Čara, Smokvica and Blato on various occasions; and the Vela Luka, performed on St Joseph's Day on March 19th.

If you find yourself in Croatia next summer and want to take in local tradition, this is a must!

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