Rijeka is a charming port city on Kvarner Bay in the northern Adriatic Sea that boasts endless character, authenticity, incredible seafood, stunning Austro-Hungarian architectural gems, a vibrant nightlife, and a rich cultural heritage. With a proud working class background in shipping and ship-building that sees cranes adorn the same skyline as Hapsburg rooftops, this is an enduringly fascinating place that is quite removed from mass tourism. For those who want to find a vacation rental in Croatia but also want to experience a version of the country that is somewhat closer to the Croatia that locals know, then a holiday rental in Rijeka is just the thing. And, as the foodie culture is one of the city’s biggest selling points then be prepared to eat really, really well during your trip!
There are, of course, plenty of great places to eat while on vacation in Rijeka and plenty of places to shop for incredible local ingredients to bring back to a villa in Rijeka and prepare wonderful meals with your loved ones but a destination that combines both is the Rijeka City Market. A hotspot for locals who claim it the best place to eat since the 19th century, the main City Market is next to the shore and near the pier, leaving it mere footsteps from where fishermen deliver the freshest fish and shellfish you could imagine.
Vendors originally sold their wares out in the open but covered pavilions to house stalls indoors were constructed in the 19th century under the director of Rijeka’s Office for Architecture, Izidor Vauchnig. There was first a fish market and then two more pavilions were added to accommodate other types of vendors and they were completed and finished with façades decorated by reliefs depicting fruit and vegetables. As time passed, however, and the central fish market became increasingly less hygienic, it was decided that it was time to build a new, top of the range, fish market facility at the opening of the 20th century. Carlo Pergoli, a local architect from Rijeka itself, was given the commission and oversaw the construction of a new fish storage building that was completed in 1914 and a new main fish market building that was finished in 1916.
Executed in an imposing Liberty style, this impressive building clearly displays Pergoli’s admiration and fondness for the Vienna secession, which is further emphasised by the wonderful stone mouldings and decorations of crustaceans and other animals sold for consumption at the market that were created by the Venetian sculptor Urban Bottasso. Crabs, octopuses, fish, seashells, and more can be seen adorning capitals, four fountains within the market itself, and on the façade and add greatly to the grandeur and beauty of the space.
This wonderful historic market is, however, not some dusty old tribute to the past but, rather, a vibrant and colourful place where you can find all sorts of vendors selling their wares inside and outside the market building every single day (bar some holidays and feast days). From the most beautiful and vivid blooms, to a rainbow of perfectly ripe fruit and vegetables from big farmers and little old ladies who grow a small array in their back gardens in the city, to incredible fresh handmade pasta, to amazing selections of cheese and cured meats, to those just-caught fish, and much more besides, the market has everything you could possibly want in one spot. In addition, you’ll find some excellent cafes, restaurants, and other eateries that serve up spectacular delights.
So, if you’re serious about your food and you have found a villa in Rijeka, be sure to head to the city’s main market at least once during your time in this part of Croatia!
Rijeka City Market
Trninina ul. 3, 51000, Rijeka
Opening hours:
Uncovered area from 7am to 2pm
Uncovered area – flower sale:
from the 1st of November to the 31st of May from 7am to 7pm
from the 1st of June to the 31st of October from 7am to 8pm
Pavilion I from 7am to 2pm
Pavilion II from 7am to 2pm
Pavilion III from 7am to 1pm